September 4th, 2018
Quality is a collection of small details. And for every piano, the first thing the pianist encounters is the keyboard. For a high-end piano, the look and feel must be superb. Inviting.
I enjoyed taking the time to ensure that the replacement sharps for this keyboard were second-to-none in fit and finish.
The new sharps are made of natural ebony and supplied by PianoTek Supply. I was thrilled with the craftsmanship and uniformity of the product. Fitting the the new sharps to the old key sticks proceeded as follows:
- Remove old sharps with steam and leverage.
- Scrape old keystick as needed (the old hide glue joint made this effort minimal).
- Glue new sharps, centered on old keystick.
- Bolster old keysticks with veneer applied with hot hide glue to allow the nice uniform sharps to be the ruling dimension (the old keysticks are not of uniform dimension).
- Sand veneer flush with the new keytop (this assures that pianist cannot ever feel a rough edge).
- Dye keystick sides black.
- Clean and polish new sharps (I used Howard’s Feed and Wax for a light wax finish)
The picture below shows bolstering the keysticks with veneer, prior to final sanding and finish.
Installed on keyframe:
May 6th, 2018
The photos which follow show new hammers installed in the action and regulation in progress.
Regulating damper timing on the workbench
Regulating damper spoons on the workbench
April 20th, 2018
I do love my job, especially when it’s clear that my objectives are met. My objectives? … enabling the joy of music for my customers.
This 1905 Heine upright came to my shop as a neglected and beat up piano, but with “good bones”. For this piano, we erased years of wear with cleaning, repairs, and reconditioning.
Today, when I saw the customer fighting the tears, expressing joy in the result, and telling family stories of the music and the piano … then I know my objectives were met.
Technically this is the work performed:
- New keytops installed (many ivories were damaged or missing)
- New key bushings installed (giving the pianist a feeling of firmness and security when playing)
- Cleaned, stained and polished sharps (preserving the authenticity and beauty of the original ebony)
- Installed new dampers (the originals were worn and hard, preventing them from performing their function)
- Reshaped shaped hammers (improving the tonal qualities of the piano)
- CA glue treatment of pinblock (restoring the torque the tuning pins need to do their job)
- Action repairs (just making everything work!)
- Regulation, tuning, and voicing (the icing on the cake. Now the touch is smooth and responsive. The voice of the piano has clarity and uniformity)
- Clean, polish, and touchup the case (the pictures tell the story)
- Refinish keybed rub-rail (lots of door jamb damage went away)
Is it everything I want in a piano? NO. Is it everything the customer needed? Clearly, YES.
October 4th, 2017
After completing work on the bottom board and keyframe, I’m preparing the piano for restringing.
Original condition of the low treble strings
Original Condition of bass strings and tuning pins
Preparation for Restringing
In preparation for restringing: old strings and tuning pins have been removed, new understring cloth has been installed, tuning pin bushings have been removed, the plate has been cleaned, and plate bolts have been tightened.
Additional work to be performed before restringing
- Soundboard cracks will be shimmed
- Separated ribs will be re-glued to the soundboard
- New tuning pin bushings will be installed.
October 1st, 2017
An Adam Schaaf player piano recently arrived in my shop for a complete rebuild. I’ll be doing the piano work, and the player work will go to a player expert. I’m pleased that my client has recognized the need for good piano work to precede good player work. With good piano work, the player mechanism can perform at its best.
Work began with restoration of the keyframe, bottom board, and pedal trap work.
Keyframe before restoration
Keyframe after restoration
Bottom Board and Pedal Trapwork
Bottom board and trapwork before restoration
Bottom board and pedal trapwork after restoration
September 1st, 2017
When boring piano hammers, keeping chips away from the jig surface is a constant need. I was tired of clearing the debris with a hand-held air nozzle. $36 in parts from Amazon helped me to create a nice solution. The heart of the solution is a 12V DC solenoid that is controlled by a magnetic switch. The magnetic switch closes when the drill press quill descends. Like a lot of shop improvements, I didn’t get payback in the first use, but the drilling process is much more efficient when using this new fixture.
Here’s the parts list:
August 13th, 2017
While installing pedals on a 90 year old upright piano, I had the opportunity to upgrade materials, and have a little fun at the lathe. The old pivot system employed a hardwood dowel bushing in a cast iron bracket. The system was likely a good one for the first 30 years, but with wear, it became floppy and noisy, and broken. I chose to fabricate new bushings to be used in the old brackets using UHMW (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) rod. UHMW is ideal for this application, since it is self-lubricating. For someone who doesn’t do a lot of lathe work, it presented a bit of a creative challenge, and I’m pleased with the result. I’m sure it will be serviceable for many years, and earns a lifetime guarantee.
July 23rd, 2017
I wanted to trim 4 mm from Tokiwa damper heads for better geometry in a 1927 Leonard upright. Here’s the jig I built to get the job done.